How to Identify Authentic Navajo Jewelry and Avoid Counterfeits

Navajo jewelry is not merely an accessory; it is a piece of art that embodies the rich history and culture of the Navajo people. Unfortunately, the market is flooded with counterfeit items, making it essential for buyers to learn how to identify authentic Navajo jewelry. This guide offers essential tips on verifying authenticity, recognizing handmade work, identifying artist hallmarks, and distinguishing real turquoise from imitations such as dyed howlite.

Understanding the Importance of Authenticity

Understanding why authenticity matters is vital before we explore the specifics. The Navajo Nation boasts a long tradition of jewelry-making, where artisans invest their heart and soul into each piece. Research indicates that anywhere from 50% to 80% of jewelry sold as "Native-made" in the U.S. is counterfeit. This doesn't just involve cheap alternatives but includes mass-produced items made in factories rather than handcrafted by Native artists.

Purchasing authentic Navajo jewelry supports these artisans and their communities, ensuring that the cultural heritage is preserved and appreciated. For instance, buying an authentic piece means contributing to the livelihoods of Navajo families, helping to maintain their traditional art forms.

Signs of Handmade Work

Craftsmanship is a key indicator of authentic Navajo jewelry. Handmade pieces often exhibit unique characteristics that distinguish them from mass-produced items.

Irregularities in Design

A hallmark of authentic Navajo jewelry is its unique design. Unlike factory-made pieces, each handmade jewelry item may have slight irregularities in shape, size, and finish. For example, you might find variations in the way a stone is set or the pattern of a stamped design. These imperfections demonstrate the artisan's skill and creativity.

Quality of Materials

Authentic pieces are generally made from high-quality materials, such as sterling silver and genuine gemstones. For example, sterling silver should typically be marked with a "Sterling" or ".925" stamp. If a piece feels light or has a plastic-like appearance, it's likely not authentic. Keep in mind that sterling silver is not magnetic. If a piece is attracted to a magnet, it is likely not genuine silver.

Weight and Feel

Genuine silver has a noticeable weight and a cool feel to it. If a piece seems too light or flimsy, it may not be authentic. Authentic Navajo jewelry should feel substantial—consider weighing it in your hand. As of the writing of this blog, silver is currently around $44 per oz! Take this into consideration when evaluating if the price of a piece is realistic -- or too good to be true.

Identifying Artist Hallmarks

Checking for artist hallmarks is a crucial step in verifying authenticity. Many Navajo artisans stamp their work with a hallmark, which may include initials, a symbol, or a specific design.

Researching Hallmarks

Familiarizing yourself with common hallmarks used by Navajo artists is essential. Resources such as books and online guides can help you identify specific artists and their marks. Knowing that, for example, renowned artist Calvin Begay uses a specific stamp and what it looks like can guide you in your search.

Consistency in Hallmarks

Authentic pieces will have hallmarks that match the artist's known signature. If the hallmark appears poorly stamped or inconsistent with authentic samples, the piece may be counterfeit.

Differentiating Real Turquoise from Fakes

Turquoise is one of the most sought-after materials in Navajo jewelry, but it is also commonly faked. Knowing how to differentiate real turquoise from imitations like dyed howlite is crucial.

Color and Matrix

Real turquoise has a unique range of colors from blue to green, often featuring natural veining or matrix patterns. In contrast, dyed howlite typically has a more uniform color. For example, authentic turquoise may display a brown or black matrix that dyed howlite lacks.

Temperature Test

Real turquoise feels cool to the touch, while dyed howlite may feel warmer. This simple test can help you quickly determine the authenticity of the stone.

Price Comparison

Be wary of prices that seem too good to be true. Authentic turquoise is valuable; if you find a piece at a significantly lower price than similar products, consider it a red flag. For instance, genuine turquoise can range from $20 to $100 per carat depending on quality and rarity.

Purchasing from Reputable Sellers

To avoid counterfeit jewelry, it is essential to buy from reputable sellers who guarantee authenticity.

Research Sellers

Before making a purchase, research the seller's reputation. Look for customer reviews, testimonials, and information about their sourcing practices. Reputable vendors like Santa Fe Sun Handmade often have a transparent business history.

Ask Questions

Do not hesitate to ask the seller about the piece, including its origin, materials, and artist. A knowledgeable seller will be happy to provide this information and may even share the story behind the piece.

Return Policy

Check the seller's return policy. Reputable sellers will often have clear policies allowing you to return items that do not meet your expectations, helping to ensure your satisfaction.

Making Informed Purchases

Identifying authentic Navajo jewelry requires a keen eye and some knowledge. By understanding the signs of handmade work, recognizing artist hallmarks, differentiating real turquoise from fakes, and purchasing from reputable sellers, you can confirm you're investing in genuine pieces that honor the artistry and culture of the Navajo people.

Remember, authenticity goes beyond just the jewelry itself; it is about supporting the artisans and preserving their rich heritage. So, the next time you’re on the hunt for Navajo jewelry, keep these insights in mind to make an informed purchase and treasure your piece for years to come.